Use a Sharpie to draw a representation of the laptop on the cardboard.  This is representational art.

Make sure to draw landmark regions so your rectangle abstract art is more representational.  Draw outside edges too.

Use the other cardboard sheets for different stages, e.g. under the keyboard, the screws on the motherboard, the screws on the bottom.

Label these sheets.

Draw dots where the screws are located on the cardboard.  Push the screws through the cardboard on these dots.  If they won’t poke through, make a pilot hole using your screwdriver.

If the screws are too small to safely be punched through, tape them over the dot.  Make sure to press the tape around all sides of the screw, so they don’t slide out one side of the tape tunnel.  You can use your screwdriver to poke through the tape and remove the screws for reassembly.

This method also works great for working on cars, or fixing other things like cell phones.

I got a Macbook laptop up and running again after failing to power-up after a sugary liquid spill.

If your laptop was hit with just plain water, consider the rice trick.  Get dry uncooked rice and rest your laptop in it overnight.  Might be a good idea to find a way to keep the rice out of the holes, while still letting the moisture escape the laptop case.

This laptop was affected by sugary goo.  Sugary goo conducts electricity.  Sugary goo can make a short circuit that causes your laptop to not start.

Before the fix the power light would turn on, and CPU fan would spin, but there was no Apple sound at startup, and LCD did not light or display an image.

This method is at your own risk.  I tried in on an already-dead Macbook with a motherboard replacement costing $400-$600.  Totally worth it in my case.  The laptop was already “dead” anyway.

Let’s get started.

Unplug the laptop and remove the battery (of course).

Open the laptop’s case, setting the screws aside in a pattern on your bench that resembles the location they were removed from.  Better yet, see my article on how to use cardboard to organize your laptop screws during dis-assembly so you don’t lose them or forget which hole they go in.

After opening the laptop to access the bottom of the motherboard I saw the sticky residue of a sugary drink.  I used cotton swabs (Q-tips) and isopropyl rubbing alcohol to clean up the sticky parts.

Clean off the tops of the sticky coated ICs with the alcohol soaked swabs.

Close-up of sugary spill goo affecting the motherboard

Soak a cotton swab in alcohol to full saturation and dab next to an IC that is affected.  Press down so the alcohol mixture flows underneath the entire IC and you can see it appear between the pins on the other side.

Flip the swab over and soak up the soiled alcohol fluid.  Do this repeatedly on every affected IC.

Check every nook and cranny.  This motherboard had affected ICs as well as a sticky, contaminated charging port header-pin array.  ICs are generally sealed very well, but inductors and other components may absorb the alcohol/water to some degree.  This is bad.  Good reason to thoroughly blow it dry with your forceful breath or compressed air.

Take your time, do it right.  Try to get the alcohol/water to clean up all the sticky residue from everything.  You don’t want to take the thing apart again after the first round if there was still sugar everywhere, do you?  But remember you don’t want the alcohol water to absorb into everything and not evaporate.  So swab many times but quickly.  Don’t leave the motherboard in a puddle for a long time.

I also ran the swab gently over various resistors, etc. that would have otherwise been coated in sugar goo.  Probably a good idea to give the motherboard an overal general cleaning.

Put it all back together – at least enough to be able to try a power-on.  Mine worked first try.

Boooooooong… happy mac.

Epilogue:  Took the computer to the client and it overheated and made  a terrible burning smell.  So I took it back, removed the motherboard one more time.

Thoroughly doused motherboard in rubbing alcohol solution, flushed underneath cpu and northbridge chips.  Used cotton swabs and paper towels to wick solution out from underneath the chips.  Throughly cleaned entire motherboard this time, being very liberal with the rubbing alcohol since it was all or nothing at this point. I sprayed a lot of moisture out using compressed duster spray. Make sure to dry out the inductors as much as possible. They’re the little ferrite cube things, some of them with little windings of copper showing. They have a lot of area for water to cling to.

Paper towels to keep rice bits away from the motherboard

Dried motherboard in a bed of dry rice overnight (wrapped it in paper towels first to avoid rice bits contaminating the motherboard).

Completely covered in rice overnight

Installed again, this time tested thoroughly with Prime95 running at 100% cpu usage.  CPU heated up and was stable, no burning smell.

At this point the computer is returned to the happy client, and has been running OK for a month.

Success!

This method should work for many other devices with plastic covers.  Do not use polish on devices with bare LCDs or touch-sensitive screens.

Do not ever use paper towels on plastic screens. Wood fibers scratch plastic.  Device pictured is an iPod Video (iPod 5th gen) I prefer Meguiar’s PlastX over Brasso — or other polishes intended for metal.  PlastX is made for plastic, and produced a clear, shiny finish. It’s said Brasso may react with your iPod’s plastic surface, staining the touch wheel if it comes in contact. Brasso is intended for metal polishing, and contains petroleum distillates. PlastX is non-toxic, water based and was created for polishing plastic.  Use PlastX.

You’ll need:

• Adhesive Tape
• Polish applicator: Cotton Balls (~6) or a single Cotton Cloth, Cotton Swabs are optional
• Meguiar’s PlastX plastic cleaner & polish
• 30 minutes time

Process: Wipe device clean Tape all seams – this will keep water and polish out of your device If your device’s screen has a seam around it (as on iPod Classic) you will need to tape over this seam in a similar fashion to the outer edge shown here

Tape over touch-wheel to keep out water and polish.  See note on tape removal to avoid touch-wheel damage

Fold tape over edges as shown to keep water and polish out of switches and connector port You now have a reasonably water-resistant iPod Start with 2 drops of PlastX polish.

Start working in polish with applicator Add more polish to applicator as needed.  Use side to side and circular polishing motion, applying light to moderate pressure.  Do not use too much pressure, the screen cover will bend, and may touch or crack the LCD beneath if you press too hard. Rotate applicator as you polish, using a clean side, and adding more polish as needed.  Periodically clean screen surface with a damp cloth to check results.  Continue process until you’re satisfied with results.  After polishing the screen area you can polish the rest of the iPod surface on the 5th gen. The entire face is plastic on this model. To get closer to the click wheel, I removed the tape covering it. Pull tape across, not up to prevent click wheel from being pulled up and away from the iPod.  I used a Cotton Swab to carefully get in to smaller areas after tape was removed

Clear polish from touch-wheel area as you would when cleaning a CD Wipe from center out, rotating to a clean part of cloth for each stroke Use a few drops of water on a Cotton Cloth or Cotton Swab to clean the polish from the surface. If it looks good, you’re done! Remove the tape from the seams, etc.

Done!

If you’ve tried polishing and there are still deep scratches or you’re not satisfied, consider buying a whole new faceplate, check ebay.

While you’re at it, why not replace or upgrade your iPod’s old battery?

Palm Treo LCD screen replacement procedure

(performed on Treo 755p, same for Treo 680, Treo 755)

Parts

I bought a new OEM LCD+Digitizer assembly on eBay from seller 1-stop-accessories for $18.98 + free shipping

Disassembly

You will need a small torx driver and a small phillips screwdriver

1. Remove battery cover and battery
2. Remove stylus
3. Remove external antenna cover flap
4. Remove camera cover screw (1 torx screw), remove camera cover plastic (snaps off)
5. Remove other screws that hold phone together (5 torx screws) one in upper-right below ext. antenna flap is tamper evident
6. With all 6 screws removed split phone apart along sides (snaps)
7. Remove back half of phone clamshell – speaker will be attached by wire, swing cover up and out of the way
8. Remove the single phillips screw from the lower left side of circuit board
9. Flip circuit board to left (will be attached by keypad and LCD ribbon cables)
10. Note the visual look of the properly inserted LCD ribbon cable, see reassembly notes below!  Then, gently lift clamp on LCD ribbon cable connector to release ribbon
11. Remove broken LCD.  It may help to gently pull outward on top part of phone’s front plastic frame to allow top of LCD to release.  LCD is not secured with adhesive or screws.
12. With LCD ribbon cable connector released via dark colored plastic flap/clamp, remove lcd ribbon cable as you pull the LCD free of the assembly.

Reassembly

Reassembly can be tricky.  It is basically the reverse of the above, except.

• Remember to make sure microphone near the charging port does not come loose.
• Remember to check that the volume buttons on side of phone do not come free of clamshell housing, and go missing or jam during reassembly, possibly damaging circuitboards.
• Install new LCD starting on bottom edge, inserting it into the phone’s front plastic clamshell/frame.  Do not force it.  If top edge of LCD will not go into frame, gently bend phone’s front plastic clamshell/frame at area that holds top of LCD, this plastic will bend a little, allowing the LCD with it’s slightly bulky electronics and connectors at top to rest into frame.
• You may find it easier to insert and clamp/secure LCD ribbon cable before inserting the LCD into the phone’s front frame.
• Important!  Make sure the LCD ribbon cable is inserted all the way into the connector.  It needs to be inserted completely, perfectly straight, and vertically centered in the slot.
• It took me 5 tries on the ribbon cable before the new LCD would work.  That was with making sure it was inserted completely and being super-careful.  Symptoms of ribbon not being attached properly:
  • No LCD or backlight activity
  • No image, but backlight is on, showing blank white screen
  • Possibly phone will flash keypad backlight, but not power on
• After inserting/attaching LCD ribbon, very gently close clamshell partially, and loosely fit phone’s rear clamshell (to allow inserting battery), test for display functionality before full reassembly.
• The operation of inserting the LCD into the phone’s front clamshell LCD frame may be ever so slightly pulling your LCD ribbon cable out of alignment.

EXCERPT: For adjustment and repair of Door Closers, often used in offices and commercial buildings.  Also known as: Mechanical door closer, office door closer, automatic door closer.

For information on pneumatic storm door closers, see this article: Storm Door Closer Maintenance, Repair and Adjustment

Disclaimer: This information may be inaccurate, incomplete, or dangerous.  You are responsible for your actions.  I caution you to NOT disassemble the main cylinder, your closer may have a strong spring inside that can cause serious injury if an end cap is removed.

This article is an updated version of the original page.

Basic Operation

• Hydraulic Door Closers close a door automatically at an adjustable speed.
• A Door Closer is usually mounted at the top of a door or above it on the jamb.  There are also internal models that are installed hidden inside the door frame for a cleaner look.
• An internal Spring applies force to the Arm to close the door.  Hydraulic fluid (oil) flows through pathways inside the closer.  The resistance/restriction to fluid flow determines the door closing speed.
• Spring strength and adjustment (if any) varies by model.  Heavier doors require stronger door closers.
• Door closers are matched to their application, based on door size and weight, and the corresponding strength needed to close them properly.
• Adjustable Spring tension allows models so equipped to work well for doors of sizes within their range of adjustment.

The operation of a door is controlled by the Door Closer in 3 basic zones:

Adjustment

Instructions here are for a properly functioning door closer.  If your door closer is not functioning properly, see Troubleshooting section before adjusting.

• Adjustment screws usually require a hex wrench.
• Your closer may have a cover that must be removed before you can access the adjustment screws.
• Do not unscrew the adjustment screws, they will fall out, and oil will spill!
• Generally, turning a screw Clockwise will increase resistance or slow the door, Counter-Clockwise will do the opposite.
• Adjustments can be sensitive, start with a 1/4 turn

Adjustment: Things to consider

• I prefer a slow-moderate sweep and a slow, quiet latch.  Sometimes environmental factors do not allow an ideal adjustment.
• If your door won’t latch when adjusted to a slow latch speed, perhaps your latch bolt is not functioning smoothly or installed correctly.
• Perhaps your door requires a higher closing force, adjust your PA (power assist) or Spring Tension if available
• Variables to take into account:
• Weather conditions: Wind, Snow, Ice, etc.  You may need to adjust your door to close properly across ALL conditions
• HVAC: Positive or Negative pressure in your building.  Some ventilation systems will cause the door to blow open or pull shut, you may need to adjust your latch speed to a little faster to overcome a positive pressure, or slower to handle a negative pressure.
• Your latch zone may be lengthened or shortened by adjusting your arm length.
• Adjusting your arm length may also cause your max open angle, or backcheck zone to engage earlier

Typical door closer

e.g. LCN, Norton/Sargent/Arrow may have the following adjustments:

To adjust a typical closer:  Adjust a little at a time – try a 1/4 turn to start, open the door between adjustments to check the difference.

Adjust in this order:

1. Sweep speed (and Power Adjust if necessary/applicable)
2. Latch speed
3. Backcheck

Picture of Norton Adjustment Screws

Kawneer door closer

For Kawneer models with a single combination adjustment for Sweep and Latch. One screw adjusts both settings:

To adjust Kawneer closers:  Set your Sweep speed first, then turn adjustment screw +/- one half turn in either direction to attain proper Latch speed.

Picture of Kawneer Adjustment Screws

Troubleshooting

Most problems are caused by low oil.

Low oil level can look like:

• Door swings too fast to a point mid-swing, at which it closes at a normal slow pace
• Door swings closed without any resistance, slamming against door jamb/frame
• Changing adjustment screws is of no effect
• Oil puddle underneath door closer unit
• Oil drops on bottom of arm

Oil loss is usually due to:

• An adjustment screw being removed
• Leaking adjustment screw seals (o-rings)
• Leaking arm shaft seals (o-rings)

Kawneer adjustment screw with o-ring replacement

Repair

Smaller Door Closers are relatively inexpensive, figure in your time, and consider replacing them.

Heavy Duty Door Closers can be expensive and hard to find replacements for

Check to see that your door closer is not under warranty.  The following instructions may void any warranty you have.

Repair seals / Refill Oil:

Consider Hydraulic Jack Oil in the automotive section of a major store.  I have also successfully refilled door closers using 3-in-1 household oil

1. Wear Safety Glasses
2. Note the leaks, and their apparent origin
3. Remove the door closer unit from the door or top jamb
4. Move unit to a suitable workspace (oil will drain, and sometimes squirt from unit during refill process)
5. Remove adjustment screws or other hardware to gain access to seals
6. Remove seals, or take the screw/shaft with the o-ring on it to the hardware store
   • Match the o-ring with a new one at the hardware store
   • optionally, buy an assortment of o-rings from Harbor Freight
7. Typical: re-insert BC adjustment screw, tilt and hold closer so that it’s on it’s end, with the S and L adjustment screw ports facing upward
8. Fill port(s) with oil, slowly moving the closer Arm to distribute oil internally.  If you move too fast oil may squirt out!
9. Fill to top and re-insert adjustment screws with fresh seals

Tip: If you want to save yourself some time adjusting, count the number of turns while you remove the adjustment screws.  When you reassemble you can turn them in the same number of times to get close to your original settings.

Arm Shaft Seals:  If you’re changing the Arm shaft seals, here’s a few tips.  Be careful if removing the internal Spring.  The Arm shaft seals on your closer might be accessible after removing the retaining ring on the pinion shaft (where the arm is attached to the closer) note the position of the arm on the pinion shaft, you will need to correctly align the arm and pinion shaft when you reassemble.  Replace the o-rings on both sides of the pinion shaft

Pinion Shaft Illustration