cowboy, your parker, do you have model number??? does it look like any of the closers pictured in the article parod has made??? many closers are generic spinoffs of name brands and basically can be fixed the same way as name brandwhen replacing seals,

many newer closers (Norton, Yale, LCN’s some have an indention near the valve hole that prevents valve removal from beyond body surface. if you really must remove the valve, its best to use a dremal and file down the indention so it looks like there’s no indention, you may meet resistance when removing the valve after this, it’s because of the tight fit of the valve against the shaved down indention on body when removing the valve screw

if working with the LCN “no leak” closer, their O-rings are alittle different, they are some v sheild thing, as in part gets moved across 2 “wipers” (much like a car shock absorber)

now if the leak is from the end cap (part with 2 or 3 holes, or huge cross head screwdriver bit depending on the brand and year they made the closer in, the O-rings for the end caps usually are thicker and larger in diameter and because the spring in many closes is under compression even when arm don’t move (rest position) and closer is off the door, its best if you have a machine shop or locksmith shop remove the effected end cap(s) to do the O-ring replacement, being they could use a press with the oversize bit and not risk injury from a spring flying out.

Mr. CParod: im glad we can now comment on this and get/give help with door closer repairing. great job on updating the door closer repair info page, if you come across any problems with ones you fix, please let me know as well, ok cparod???

I was given the nickname door(closer)doctor in high school because of stuff like this
adjusting and telling maintenance men how to fix leaks and once in a while fixing leaks and gurgling sounds some may make due to low oil.

-Jess the door(closer)doctor